With a team of three young athletes, I’m heading into the Mont Rose massif to attempt our first 4000-meter peak. The Mont Rose massif (Monte Rosa) stretches between Italy and Switzerland, boasting a high altitude and an impressive concentration of peaks over 4000 meters, including the Lyskamm and Pointe Dufour. Our goal is to climb the Pointe Zumstein at 4562 meters. This peak, a great introduction to high-altitude mountaineering, doesn’t present any particular technical difficulties, making it ideal for a first 4000-meter climb.
Starting from Gressoney late morning, we take the lifts to Punta Indren at 3275 meters, the starting point of our hike to the Gnifetti hut. The trail quickly crosses the Indren glacier tongue before weaving between rocky bars where we sometimes have to use our hands. We have to be careful not to climb too fast as breathing becomes difficult at this altitude. A few nice via ferrata sections help us overcome the steepest parts. We quickly reach the Citta di Mantova hut, but our final destination is a little higher… This time we have to cross the Garstelet glacier to reach the last rocky sections below the hut. In 1 hour and 30 minutes, we reach our goal for the day: the Gnifetti hut at 3647 meters.
Above, we can see tomorrow’s route winding between the impressive glaciers. We can see the Pyramide Vincent at 4215 meters, another great peak, but we’ll be going further into the mountains tomorrow. But for now, it’s beer time.
After a hearty meal, we quickly join our small room. Tomorrow we start early! 4 am… it’s time, we jump out of bed and head for breakfast. Everyone is okay, no headaches, everything is fine. In the light of our headlamps, we climb the Lys glacier. It’s pretty packed for the season. It’s not too cold, despite the slight breeze coming down. In less than 2 hours we reach the Col de Lys at 4150 meters. Dawn and magnificent gradients of light welcome us there. We take the opportunity to take a break and eat a bar.
We now cross under the Pointe Parrot (4443m) and soon see the Marguerita hut, the highest manned hut in Europe, at 4554m. The altitude is starting to be felt and we now emerge onto the Col Gnifetti with a view of the Po plain as our reward. The last part of our ascent is on a very beautiful, narrow ridge. The whole team reaches the summit of Pointe Zumstein. The weather is beautiful and we enjoy a few minutes in this magnificent belvedere. The Pointe Dufour (the highest peak in the massif at 4634m) is not far…
The descent is quick, and as the day progresses we discover the environment of our starting point. After passing the huts, we rejoin Punta Indren and descend into the warmth of the valley. A small restaurant to celebrate the team’s success with this first 4000 meters, and we return to France, full of images of fabulous landscapes.”